A little bit of everything

Yppenplatz

The good weather held on into Friday. I had decided I wanted to see another market area besides the Naschmarkt. So, today I set off to visit the so-called Brunnenmrkt. Again I took a tram out of the city center into the 18^th district. The Brunnenmarkt, with more than 170 market stalls between Thaliastrasse and Ottakringer Strasse, is Vienna’s largest street market. The market exudes a Middle Eastern flair. You are more likely to hear Turkish or Arabic being spoken here than German. In addition to fruits and vegetables, there are vendors selling spices and cookware. Almost all the butchers advertise as being halal (though incongruously I saw at least one wurst stand.) Many artists have set up shop in the surrounding area, making Brunnenmarkt and nearby Yppenmarkt one of the most electric neighborhoods in the city. Some of Vienna's most exciting restaurants have opened around Yppenplatz. I walked the entire length- down one side and back up the other. It was fascinating.

Karlskirche and Christmas Market

I boarded the tram intending to ride back into the center. Shortly after getting on, there was an announcement that the tram would be terminating at . . .  because of fire department activity. I just missed where we had to get off. It didn’t take long before I found out, only about three more stops. Fortunately, it was at a subway station and I got to ride a line I had never been on before! Another first! I switched trains in order to get to Karlsplatz, my intended destination. I wanted to visit the Museum of the City of Vienna. I also wanted to see the Karlskirche, a baroque marvel that I hadn’t visited in a while. When I arrived near the church, I could see that workers were busy erecting one of Vienna’s Christmas Markets. The church, fortunately or unfortunately, was closed. There was an admission charge of 8 euros for adults. I still bristle at having to pay admission to a church. The sun had warmed the air considerably and I bought a bottle of water and sat outside for a while before heading into the museum.

The Museum of Vienna is a wonderful place to get a sense of the city’s evolution. The permanent collection is arranged chronologically, which allows one to pick and choose which eras one wants to learn about. On this visit, I was particularly interested in medieval Vienna. The museum houses a wonderful collection of original artifacts from St. Stephen’s cathedral. The sculptures and stained glass were very impressive. One object that I found especially interesting was the double eagle from the spire of the cathedral. The one on display was removed during work in the mid-1800’s to be replaced by one with the initials of Emperor Franz Josef. That is the one that is still there today.

Poster for the exhibition

There was also a major exhibit of photographs and materials relating to the founding of the Austrian Republic at the end of WWI. In addition to being the centenary of the armistice, this was also the 100^th anniversary of the founding of the Austrian Republic in 1918. I knew that the abdication of the last emperor and the abolition of the monarchy were painful experiences; and that the people of Austria did not universally welcome the new democratic government. The exhibit expertly captured the tumultuous events and the hostilities surrounding the declaration of the republic. What I also found compelling, were the poignant images of the war wounded and the effects of starvation on the residents of the city.

Ruprechtsplatz

I got back on the subway and headed towards Schwedenplatz. The Vienna Tourist Board website suggested that this was a “lively” spot. I figured I could grab a quick bite there. It was only a few stops away, but when I arrived, I did not find anything that interesting. Despite the fact that my feet were starting to complain, I began walking back towards the apartment. The route took me along a stretch of the Donau Canal, which is the closest thing Vienna has to waterfront.  Eventually I came to a sign pointing to St. Ruprecht’s Church. I remembered from previous visits that this was the oldest church building in Vienna. I climbed the stairs up to the little “Platz” where the church stands. It’s just one of those wonderfully charming places in Vienna. I peeked into the church and said a quick prayer. When I came out, I saw that there were a few restaurants around the square. One, Das Salzamt, had an interesting hand-written menu posted outside. I considered going in to make a reservation for dinner, but wasn’t quite ready to commit. Walking back to the apartment, I realized that it was closer than I thought. I was quite happy to get “home” and take off my shoes.

Pork medallions at Salzamt

Sitting with my feet up, I consulted TripAdvisor about dinner for tonight. Seems like the place I had just seen was reviewed very favorably. I decided to give it a try, but to go early. When I arrived just at 7:00, the place seemed packed. The waiter gave me a sad face when I asked for a seat. “Do you have a reservation?” (Damn! Why hadn’t I stopped in.) “No” I replied dejectedly. I thought I was done here, but then he said. “Well, you can sit here.” I He pointed to a small table right inside the door. “Fine” I said. (I was actually very relieved to not be turned away.) He handed me a copy of the hand-written menu in German. I ordered a beer and began deciphering the menu. It was worth the effort. I had smoked trout on a bed of greens to start. I followed with pork medallions in a gorgonzola sauce. This was not your usual “Gasthaus”. This turned out to one of the finer meals I had in Vienna. The food was outstanding. The wait staff were amazing too. They were both efficient and friendly in a typically Viennese way, always ready to engage in just the right amount of banter – enough to make you think they cared, but not enough to slow down service.  As I have mentioned before, I truly enjoy watching good restaurants in operation.