There are no pictures in this posting. You will understand
once you start reading. This rather long wind-up is required to understand how
and why I am spending two weeks in Austria. If you’d rather just wait for the
pictures, it won’t be long. Thanks for staying with me!
When I first started planning my sabbatical a year ago, I
knew that I wanted to spend a certain amount of time in a German –speaking country
to refresh my German skills. Ideally, I was looking for some sort of structured
program that was conducted in the German language. As I did my research, I
discovered that most ‘academic’ programs required me to commit to a semester,
or the better part of one. That was more time than I wished to devote to this
effort. I then began researching programs related to wine in Austria, another
one of my interests. To my delight, I discovered that there was such a thing as
the Austrian Wine Academy, which did indeed offer a wide variety of courses
on wine in general, but also specifically Austrian wines. You can read about it here: https://www.weinakademie.at/english.php Most courses were
offered in two basic formats: evening courses that met once a week for several
weeks running; or, concentrated weekend programs. I began communicating with
them by e-mail. In the end, we agreed that most suitable program for me was the
“Ă–sterrichisches Weintutorium”, or Austrian Wine Tutorial. That was a full
three-day program giving one both an overview of the Austrian wine industry and
a certain amount of guided tastings. There was even a test at the end. If one
passed, one received a certificate to that effect. This sounded like the course
for me.
It took a while before they published their fall 2018
calendar, but, when they did, I was happy to see that the program was going to
be offered twice in November. That would be ideal, since I could simply stay in
Europe following my time in Italy. I settled on the course being offered from
Nov.9-11. It was my nephew, Sean, however, who pointed out to me the 90-day rule
in effect in the countries of the Schengen accord. (If you are interested or are having trouble falling asleep, you can read about the Schengen accord here: https://www.schengenvisainfo.com/schengen-agreement/ The rule states that
citizens of non-member states may only remain within the borders of the union without
a visa for 90 days before they have to leave. OK, I thought, I’ll just get a
visa. Not as simple as I thought; and, ultimately not a viable option for
someone without a bank account. By this time, I had already purchased my ticket
to Europe, so I sat down and did the math (actually, I had my assistant do it.
She is much more adept than I am). When she handed me the results, my heart
sank. My 90th day would be Nov.10! Right in the middle of the wine
course. Of all the bum luck! All was not lost, though. If I left the Schengen
zone for a few days, the clock would stop. It would then re-start when I re-entered.
The most likely candidate for this was Great Britain, since they are not part
of the Schengen agreement. I toyed with that idea for a while, but there were
other things to consider. The most crucial was voting in the mid-term election
and secondly getting my prescriptions re-filled. So, in the end, that’s what I
decided to do. I would return to the US for a week and fly back to Europe for
the course. Hence, my departure from Dublin to Newark on October 28.
Two things happened that turned these well thought-out plans
on their head. As the tour I was with in Scandinavia was about to head to
Norway, our tour guide pointed out the importance of having our passports
ready. She pointed out that Norway, was not a member of the EU, but was a
signatory of the Schengen agreement. She went on to explain that not all the
parties to the Schengen agreement were members of the EU, e.g. Switzerland;
and, that not all the members of the EU were part of it either, e.g. Ireland. “Wait,
what? Did she just say that Ireland was not part of the Schengen agreement? If
that’s true, then my time in Ireland (3 weeks+) does not count towards the 90
days.” When I verified that fact, I realized that I could have stayed in Europe
through the time of the course. “Oh, well” I thought, “too late now.” While I
did not have concrete travel plans, I had not applied for an absentee ballot
and I was not about to forfeit my right to vote. Anyway, there were other good
reasons to go home for that week. The other shoe dropped while I was in Italy.
I received an e-mail from the staffer at the Austrian Wine Academy saying
that they were not getting the kind of registrations they needed to run the
course the weekend of Nov. 9 and it might get cancelled. Could I come the
weekend of Nov. 2? “No” I answered,” I already have my flights back to the US
booked.” A week later, I received the definitive word that the course had been
cancelled. Now what to do? I had flights, I had hotel reservations and I had
even rented an apartment in Vienna for the week following the course, whose
cancellation date was October 29! Ugh!
After considering my options before I left Italy, I e-mailed my travel agent to see
whether the airlines might play nice and cut me some slack. That got me
nowhere. I really didn't want to travel again right away. So, I considered paring down my stay to one week, but, even changing my
flight would cost me $350 in penalties. In the end, I decided to just make the best of it
and go to Austria for the two weeks. What will follow in the next few days is
about that.
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