All the way to the top, this time . . .

At the ferry landing in Tuoro

When my family and I visited the Isola Maggiore on Monday, we didn’t climb all the way to the top, where the church of St. Michael and the former Franciscan monastery are located. We also only walked a small part of the trail that circles the island. I knew after we had been there that I wanted to return. Keeping an eye on the weather, Friday seemed like it would be a perfect day. A slight cool front had come through the night before and it was still rather windy in the morning, but nothing to be concerned about. I did my usual morning chores, put another load of laundry in and headed for the ferry. Perhaps because it was Friday, there were more people waiting to go across than there were on Monday. We boarded and, in ten minutes, we were tying up on the island.

The view from the top

I retraced our steps to the start of the ascent. Before I started up, though, I read about the castle that occupies one corner of the island and is up for sale . . . if I only had won that lottery! I started up vigorously but very quickly I became aware of my breath. I was really struggling. I didn’t think that I was that out of shape! I pushed on and eventually made it to the top. Thank God, there was a bench there. For the benefit of the other tourists, I pretended to be looking at the view, but I was really trying to catch my breath. The view itself was breathtaking, however.

The church of San Michele

The church is part of a small museum group on the island. There is a small admission fee. Inside it was quite something. Fortunately for me and the other two visitors, the woman taking the ticket money was also a docent and she gave an excellent tour of the church and its artwork. For a place that seems rather remote, this church had some significant artworks. Perhaps it is because St. Francis is reported to have spent an entire Lent on the island, which is dotted with various shrines to him. The church is now deconsecrated and no longer in use. The Franciscans left the island in the 1860’s.  The castle that I want to buy was originally part of the monastery. After consulting a map, I decided to take the trail that lead down to the lake on the opposite side of where the ferry comes in.

From the water's edge

Not surprisingly, the descent is quite steep. The trail winds its way down the hillside in a series of sharp S-curves. Other than the group of German tourists I passed at the top, I was totally alone on the trail. The hillsides are covered in thick vegetation. It is a very green place. Other than the wind rustling the leaves and the occasional bird, there was a profound quiet on the island. I think that is one of the characteristics that drew me back. I made it all the way down and stood near the water’s edge. Because of the wind, the water was lapping on the rocks that make up the shoreline. I could look across towards Passignano and the other island, the Isola Minore. It was spectacular. I followed the trail along the shore for at least a kilometer before reaching “civilization”. I was very happy that I had decided to return. I looked at the time. If I hurried, I might just make the next ferry. If not, I might have to have lunch on the island . . .

Gnocchetti with fish ragu

I did not make that ferry, so I had to choose one of the three restaurants on the island. None of them receive stellar reviews, though not terrible ones either. I decided on the one farthest from the ferry landing. It is called Ristorante L’Oso and it has lakefront seating. The wind had died down, so it was comfortable sitting outside, even in the shade. There were two menus “del giorno”, or of the day, in addition to the regular a la carte menu. There was one fish menu and one meat menu. It being Friday, I decided to go for the fish menu, even though I am not crazy about lake fish. I thought I should give it one more try. The first course were little gnocchi with a lake fish ragu and cherry tomatoes. I rather enjoyed it. The second was a grilled perch fillet that I had with a mixed salad. The fish was perfectly grilled and tasty. So I was quite satisfied with my meal. I had barely finished and paid, when I saw the ferry heading from the other shore.

Working on the blog

I got back to Antiche Pietre and began the dreaded task of packing after two weeks in one place. I hung the last pieces of wash out to dry and began organizing my suitcase. I didn’t want to have to do it all on Saturday. That would make my last day too sad. I got that done and sat down to continue working on my blog and cleaning out the refrigerator. There was a portion of the baked pasta to be dealt with, along with the remaining cheese and salami in the fridge. After two hours of writing, I started eating while working. But soon I called it quits and finished my supper in front of the TV.