Peregrinatio Alterius Pauli: A visit to a Glacier and a nap!

Our next full day in Norway was devoted to a visit to the Briksdal Glacier a tongue of the Jostedal glacier, the largest glacier in continental Europe. To reach the glacier, we had to pass around the edge of the fjord by our hotel. It was a beautiful drive as we passed through some of what little arable land that Norway has. This region is particularly known for its fruit. Near our hotel, there were several

Apples growing near Loen

farms with trees loaded with apples just ready to be picked. At the base of the glacier, which is within a Norwegian National Park, there is a well-developed center for tourists with parking, shops, restaurants, and toilet facilities. This trip has made me aware of just how dependent Norway has become on the tourist industry.

To get close to the glacier, there are two options: walk (a.k.a. climb) or ride in a troll car. Our tour arranged for us to go by troll car. A troll car is an oversized ATV that seats 7 passengers and the driver. I was lucky enough to ride shotgun with the driver. It’s quite a climb even in a troll car and

A troll car

there were times when I was hanging on for dear life, even with a seatbelt on! Even the troll cars can’t go all the way up. The last part of the trek has to be done on foot, so we dismounted and began walking. The trail takes you through some beautiful upland forest. Despite the warm, dry summer, everything was fresh and green because of the recent rains. The trail winds its way uphill for about 500 yards or so and then it opens onto an amazing sight. You stand in a rock-strewn clearing witnessing the moment when glacial ice turns into water, tumbles through a ravine and pours itself into a pond of glacial water that is like no other color on earth. It truly is breathtaking. I savored the experience for quite some time, before deciding to head back down.

Viewing the glacier

I walked back to the spot where the troll cars would meet us. A few of our group could not make the last stretch on foot, so they were waiting there as well. Little by little, other members of our group trickled back in. At some point, someone did the calculation and estimated that it would be at least 20 minutes before we could ride down. At that point, a few others and I decided that we would walk. It was a beautiful day and it was great to be out in the fresh air. Even going downhill, the walk was strenuous; but I’m glad I did it. About 2/3 of the way down, I passed a sign indicating that this is where the glacier had ended in 1920. This was a sobering reminder of one of the effects of climate change. It gave me a lot to think about. We reassembled at the bottom and went into one of the restaurants for a group lunch. All that hiking had worked up an appetite. J

We arrived back at the hotel around 2:30 and had the rest of the afternoon to ourselves. Again, I was grateful for some down time – and a nap!

Before dinner, we were treated to a 55 minute condensed history of Norway presented by two locals. It was both informative and entertaining. Following the talk, I joined two couples for a 3-course dinner at the hotels fine-dining restaurant. It was a very enjoyable evening with great conversation and great food; but by the time we finished, it was almost 10:30. I was glad that I got that nap in!

I'm adding a few more photos of the Briksdal, because it was so beautiful.