The Final Chapter

When the alarm went off at 6:00, I was ready to go. I woke refreshed and alert. I went into the kitchen to put on water to boil, then took a shower. I dressed and drank my coffee. I cleaned up and the kitchen and made my final check. Everything looked good. I zipped up my suitcase, put on my coat, left the keys on the counter as instructed, pulled the door shut and went downstairs to meet my driver. 7:00 on the dot – just as arranged. We loaded my stuff in the trunk and pulled away. There was some wet snow falling, but nothing was sticking to the road. The driver and I had a pleasant conversation about Vienna and we were soon approaching the airport. Vienna’s airport is about 35-40 minutes away from the city center, but, at this hour, we were going against traffic and made good time. We reached the airport and I paid him the agreed upon amount plus a nice tip. We shook hands and wished each other well.

I was flying Business Class, so I was looking forward to having breakfast in the lounge. I got to the Business Class check-in and walked right up to the counter. I reached into my bag to pull out my passport. It had sat on the counter in the apartment all week, so, the night before I had made extra sure that it was in the bag. I fished around in the compartment where I keep it. Hmmm. Where was it, I opened the bag a little wider and began going through all the pockets. “Where is it?” I asked frantically. The agent said “Do you have your identity card”, I said ,”No” I’m an American and I saw his face drop. “There’s nothing I can do,” he said. “It has to be here,” I answered. I was in full panic now. Nothing like this had ever happened to me. I stepped off to the side and tried to calm down. I went through the bag methodically. The passport was not there. It had to be in the apartment or the cab. I took a deep breath and called Anita, the rental agency agent. Fortunately, she picked up right away. I explained the situation to her and she was very calming. “OK” she said, “the cleaning lady is on her way there right now. I will call her. I will call you right back.”  Right back never seemed to take so long. Finally the phone rang. “She will be at the apartment in about 20 minutes and she will look for it. I will let you know when she calls me.” “Thank You” I said, “could you also call the cab driver and ask him to look and see if it is in the cab?” “I’ll do that” she said and rang off.  I was doing the math in my head. It would be close, if she finds it; I could still make the flight. While I waited for her call, every scenario imagined played in my head. I had visions of a trip to the embassy; finding a hotel room for who knows how many nights; trying to find another flight home in the days before Thanksgiving. The phone rang. “It’s not in the cab” Anita said; “but the cab driver is heading back to the apartment now. If it’s there, he will come right back to the airport.” I did the math again. Yes, it could work.  She rang off again. I waited a few more minutes, which seemed like an eternity. “The cleaning lady must be there by now” I thought. “What’s taking so long?” I was in agony. Finally, the phone rang. It was Anita. “It wasn’t in the apartment” she said drily. My heart sank. “It was on the ground near the entrance to the building. It must have fallen out when you were putting your bag in the trunk. The driver is on his way back to the airport. He will meet you where he dropped you off.” I said “Thank You” in every language I knew. I had never felt such a sense of relief in my life. “Have a safe trip,” she said.

I knew I had at least twenty-five minutes, so I went and got some water. I might have had coffee, but there was so much adrenaline flowing through my veins that I decided against it.  I sat at a counter and slowly drank my water. I gradually began to calm down. Soon it was time, so I went outside. The fresh air felt good and before too long my cabbie drove up. He opened the widow and handed me my passport and I handed him nearly all the euros that I had left. If he had said, “That’s not enough”, I probably would have gone inside and withdrawn more cash. Instead, he thanked me and waved good-bye. I rushed inside and checked in. Somehow, I missed the Business Class security line and had to crawl through the regular line. I made it to the gate, just as they were beginning to board Business Class. I was never so happy to get on a plane and sit down. “I made it”, I thought to myself as I slumped into my seat. What a way to end my European adventure!

We were delayed for a while on the ground because planes were being de-iced. Eventually we took off and soon we were heading westwards; I was heading home. I settled into my seat for the almost 9-hour flight. The pilot assured us that we would still arrive on time. Weather conditions presented no problems. Before too long, I was sipping some nice Austrian wine and savoring some very delicious food. My main course was a veal goulash with sour cream that was incredibly good for airline food. Once the meal service was finished, I turned out the light and took a nice long nap. After a good rest, I went back to work on this blog and worked constructively for a few hours. When we reached North America, I stopped and followed our progress down the snow-covered Eastern seaboard. When I recognized Lake Champlain, I knew we were almost home. We followed the Hudson down but did the obligatory circle over Newark Airport. When we finally touched down, we sat on the runway for over thirty minutes, because there was no gate available. Thanks to Global Entry, I was through customs quickly. I proceeded outside to meet my driver. Thanks to the runway delay, on the other hand, we now had to deal with rush hour traffic. Still, before too long we were on Route 24 headed for Morristown. The biggest chunk of my sabbatical travels were now at an end. So, as a result, we have come to the end of this blog.

If you have followed my travels, thank you! I hope you have enjoyed reading these accounts as much as I have enjoyed writing them.

Sunday, Sunday

The kitchen in action

Today would be my last full day in Vienna before returning to the US. I had invited Martin to come to the apartment for lunch. Looking at what was available in the kitchen, I decided I could probably make a credible mushroom risotto. After returning from Klosterneuburg on Saturday, we made a quick stop at one of the few supermarkets still open after 6:00 p.m. All shops are closed on Sunday. The place was a madhouse, but I did manage to find everything we needed to put a meal on the table. I considered trying to go to Mass before lunch, but all the Masses were too early. Fortunately, there were several late afternoon Masses in the city center. So, I had a lazy Sunday morning. Eventually I got around to prepping for lunch. I cleaned and chopped the parsley, did the same for the mushrooms, grated the cheese and set the table. I used the two apples and muesli I had left to make microwaved “baked” apples. It made the apartment smell great!

The table is set

Martin arrived right on time. I went downstairs to let him in and it was the first time I had been outside. The sky was grey and the air was cold and damp. Some light snow was predicted for tonight and tomorrow. Winter had definitely arrived. Martin had the last few ingredients with him and some pastry as well. While I made the risotto, we nibbled on some antipasto and had a drink. Then it was time to eat. I have to admit, the risotto was quite good. We had a pleasant lunch, but then Martin had to get home to meet his daughter. I gave him all the food that I had left in the apartment. We said our goodbyes and parted company. I was happy to have had the chance to spend so much time with this old friend.

Fiaker under Christmas lights

I loaded the dishwasher and gave the kitchen a thorough cleaning. I had to be up and out of the apartment tomorrow at 7:00, so I wanted as much done as possible. Even though I knew that the cleaning lady would never be satisfied by the job I had done, I still felt compelled. I packed the rest of my things, except what I was wearing to fly home. By 5:00, I as ready as I could be. There was a Mass at St. Peter’s church at 6:00. That would be perfect. I hopped on the subway and made my way to the center. When I came up onto Stephansplatz, I was captivated by the scene. All the Christmas lights had been turned on and the city was aglow. Every street seemed to have a different pattern of lights. It was truly beautiful. I reached the church and went inside. I was surprised to see how many people were there. By the time Mass started, the church was nearly full. St. Peter’s is another marvel of Baroque architecture and there was much to distract one, but fortunately, the celebrant was engaging. Leaving the church, I was heading towards the Christmas market near the art museum where the Breughel exhibit was. Martin had suggested that the market there was the nicest. I walked through the streets of old Vienna that were filled with both locals and tourists enjoying the festive, if chilly, atmosphere. Every now and then a flake of snow would fall.

City Hall

I reached the site of the market, only to find that it hadn’t opened yet. The different markets in the city open on different dates. I knew that the one at the city hall was open, so I headed there. I had never been in Vienna in the run up to Christmas, so I had never been to one of these markets before. The one at the city hall is among the largest and includes an outdoor ice-skating venue. The markets have various stalls, some selling food and drink, especially “Glühwein”, a type of mulled wine. There are also stalls selling Christmas ornaments and decorations, many made by artisans from the rural parts of the country. There are also carnival style rides at this one. Not surprisingly, it was mobbed. There were people of all ages, but especially lots of young couples with small children. It was quite enjoyable, but it was now time to get something to eat, go home and get to bed early.

The Christmas Market

The area between city hall and my apartment had many options, but because the university was in between, many of them catered to students and not exactly what I had in mind. I walked past one Italian place that I had read about. I looked at the menu outside. It was not busy, so I decided to go in. So, my last meal in Vienna was going to be Italian! Such is life. It was a fairly upscale place, but it was warm and quiet. Just what I needed. The wait staff were pleasant and I soon had a glass of wine and some bread. I ordered and my appetizer arrived quickly. It was vitello tonnato, cold slices of veal with a creamy tuna sauce. It was an excellent version of the dish. That made my disappointment at my lasagna even more profound. It was very poorly made. Oh well. You can’t win them all. I paid and walked back to the apartment for one last time. I made one last check to make sure I had everything. I shut off the lights in the living room, got into bed, began reading and soon enough fell asleep. 6:00 a.m. would be here quickly.

Klosterneuburg’s Leopoldifest

I woke up on Saturday with the thought that I only had two more days in Vienna. After being ambivalent about coming, now I didn’t want to leave. It was pretty chilly in the apartment, which meant it must be quite chilly outside. I checked the weather - 27°. I turned up the heat and made a mental checklist of things I needed to do before beginning to pack. One was a load of wash. While the water was boiling for coffee, I threw some clothes in the washer.  I had some breakfast, checked my e-mail and took a shower. By this time the wash was done, so I took it out and hung it up to finish drying. The machine does a kind of damp dry. I know that sounds strange, but when the cycle is done, the clothes are hot but still slightly damp. They dry completely in an hour or so. This morning I was staying close to home because I had to meet Martin at 2:00.

Votivkirche

My first stop today was the Votivkirche. This neo-gothic church was built by Emperor Franz Josef in the mid 1800’s in gratitude for being spared in an assassination attempt.  It is not a building of architectural significance, but I hadn’t been in it since my student days. It was literally a few blocks from the apartment; and, on a bright sunny day, it would be at its best. Much of the exterior was shrouded in scaffolding. As I learned from Martin later, the entire exterior was being restored. The building is made of sandstone and acid rain had weakened much of it. The two slender towers that had already been restored and cleaned, gleamed in the morning sun.

Interior

After some trial and error, I finally found a door that allowed me to enter.  I came into the south transept and at once my eye went up to the soaring arches and vaulted ceiling. In many ways, it reminded me of St. Patrick’s Cathedral in NYC, whose dates are roughly similar. The nave was closed to the public, so I could only visit the two transepts and the area around the sanctuary. While not an original building, there is a harmonious quality to it. As some might say, “it works”. 

Jägerstätter Window

I was getting ready to leave, when I saw the Blessed Sacrament Chapel and went in to say a prayer. Before leaving, I was admiring the stained glass which was clearly modern. The church had suffered severe damage at the end of WWII. One window in particular caught my eye. It showed Bl. Franz Jägerstätter holding a Nazi flag torn in half. Jägerstätter was an Austrian farmer who refused induction into the Nazi army because of his Catholic faith. He was executed by the Nazis and declared Blessed by Pope Benedict XVI in 2007.

It was such a beautiful day, I decided to walk along the canal for a bit before finding something to eat. Along the banks there is a long promenade that is used for concerts, outdoor dining and other activities. In the late fall, however, it seemed almost abandoned and desolate. An air of “Schwermut” (melancholy) hung over the place – and that was on a bright, sunny day! I could only imagine what it would have been on a cold, gray day. I left the canal and turned into the neighborhood near Servitenwirt. I picked up a sandwich to eat at the apartment. I still had beer to finish before leaving!

The church at Klosterneuburg

At two o’clock, I met Martin on the subway and we traveled out to the end of the line in Heiligenstadt (famous as Beethoven’s residence for many years). Outside the station, we boarded a local bus for the town of Klosterneuburg, home of the famous Augustinian priory of the same name. This weekend the priory, the town and the state of Lower Austria (Niederösterreich) were celebrating the feast of their patron, St. Leopold. Leopold was a 12^th century Habsburg archduke, who was revered for his piety. The town and the religious community celebrate the feast jointly; and, as a result, it is a blend of both the sacred and the secular. There are a number of liturgical celebrations and also a carnival with rides, booths and food stalls. This juxtaposition can only make sense in a Catholic country like Austria. The reason that Martin and I were going was for a tour inside the “Stift”.

The entrance to the imperial wing

During the three-day celebration, guided tours are available to take visitors inside the monastery. Klosterneuburg was an “Imperial” monastery, which meant that enjoyed the special protection of the emperor. It also meant that the monastery had to provide hospitality to the emperor and his retinue when they traveled. One entire wing of the monastery was constructed for this purpose. Unfortunately, the emperor who commissioned the building died before he could ever use it. We, however, were able to see it. It was truly magnificent.

The Verdun Altar

Klosterneuburg has been rebuilt many times over the centuries. On the tour, we were able to visit the remains of several eras of the abbey’s history. The most significant work of art at Klosterneuburg is the Verdun altar, a masterpiece of medieval art. The altar comprises a total of 51 enameled panels of Biblical scenes arranged in three horizontal layers, corresponding to the epochs of the history of salvation. It is a masterwork of medieval enamel work. We were viewing the altar just as the liturgy upstairs was concluding. Our guide advised us to return in a few minutes, because they would be returning the monastery’s most precious relic, the skull of St. Leopold, to its usual resting place in front to the Verdun altar. Right on schedule, a procession arrived from the church above us and the relic was reverently replaced in its usual space. That was not something one sees every day.

It was after 6:00 now, so Martin and I made our way back into Vienna. We began looking for a place to eat, but struck out at two places that he knew. We eventually went into a Middle Eastern place relatively close to the apartment called, Habibi and Hawara. The menu looked interesting, if confusing. Eventually we ordered, but it took forever for the food to come. There was a large private party going on and I think the staff was extremely overstretched. Eventually the food came and it was very good, but I was exhausted by this point. I know it’s hard to believe, but I was almost too tired to eat! Somehow we managed, though. We paid our bill and went our separate ways- me, on foot; martin on the U-Bahn. I got back to the apartment and literally fell into bed.

A little bit of everything

Yppenplatz

The good weather held on into Friday. I had decided I wanted to see another market area besides the Naschmarkt. So, today I set off to visit the so-called Brunnenmrkt. Again I took a tram out of the city center into the 18^th district. The Brunnenmarkt, with more than 170 market stalls between Thaliastrasse and Ottakringer Strasse, is Vienna’s largest street market. The market exudes a Middle Eastern flair. You are more likely to hear Turkish or Arabic being spoken here than German. In addition to fruits and vegetables, there are vendors selling spices and cookware. Almost all the butchers advertise as being halal (though incongruously I saw at least one wurst stand.) Many artists have set up shop in the surrounding area, making Brunnenmarkt and nearby Yppenmarkt one of the most electric neighborhoods in the city. Some of Vienna's most exciting restaurants have opened around Yppenplatz. I walked the entire length- down one side and back up the other. It was fascinating.

Karlskirche and Christmas Market

I boarded the tram intending to ride back into the center. Shortly after getting on, there was an announcement that the tram would be terminating at . . .  because of fire department activity. I just missed where we had to get off. It didn’t take long before I found out, only about three more stops. Fortunately, it was at a subway station and I got to ride a line I had never been on before! Another first! I switched trains in order to get to Karlsplatz, my intended destination. I wanted to visit the Museum of the City of Vienna. I also wanted to see the Karlskirche, a baroque marvel that I hadn’t visited in a while. When I arrived near the church, I could see that workers were busy erecting one of Vienna’s Christmas Markets. The church, fortunately or unfortunately, was closed. There was an admission charge of 8 euros for adults. I still bristle at having to pay admission to a church. The sun had warmed the air considerably and I bought a bottle of water and sat outside for a while before heading into the museum.

The Museum of Vienna is a wonderful place to get a sense of the city’s evolution. The permanent collection is arranged chronologically, which allows one to pick and choose which eras one wants to learn about. On this visit, I was particularly interested in medieval Vienna. The museum houses a wonderful collection of original artifacts from St. Stephen’s cathedral. The sculptures and stained glass were very impressive. One object that I found especially interesting was the double eagle from the spire of the cathedral. The one on display was removed during work in the mid-1800’s to be replaced by one with the initials of Emperor Franz Josef. That is the one that is still there today.

Poster for the exhibition

There was also a major exhibit of photographs and materials relating to the founding of the Austrian Republic at the end of WWI. In addition to being the centenary of the armistice, this was also the 100^th anniversary of the founding of the Austrian Republic in 1918. I knew that the abdication of the last emperor and the abolition of the monarchy were painful experiences; and that the people of Austria did not universally welcome the new democratic government. The exhibit expertly captured the tumultuous events and the hostilities surrounding the declaration of the republic. What I also found compelling, were the poignant images of the war wounded and the effects of starvation on the residents of the city.

Ruprechtsplatz

I got back on the subway and headed towards Schwedenplatz. The Vienna Tourist Board website suggested that this was a “lively” spot. I figured I could grab a quick bite there. It was only a few stops away, but when I arrived, I did not find anything that interesting. Despite the fact that my feet were starting to complain, I began walking back towards the apartment. The route took me along a stretch of the Donau Canal, which is the closest thing Vienna has to waterfront.  Eventually I came to a sign pointing to St. Ruprecht’s Church. I remembered from previous visits that this was the oldest church building in Vienna. I climbed the stairs up to the little “Platz” where the church stands. It’s just one of those wonderfully charming places in Vienna. I peeked into the church and said a quick prayer. When I came out, I saw that there were a few restaurants around the square. One, Das Salzamt, had an interesting hand-written menu posted outside. I considered going in to make a reservation for dinner, but wasn’t quite ready to commit. Walking back to the apartment, I realized that it was closer than I thought. I was quite happy to get “home” and take off my shoes.

Pork medallions at Salzamt

Sitting with my feet up, I consulted TripAdvisor about dinner for tonight. Seems like the place I had just seen was reviewed very favorably. I decided to give it a try, but to go early. When I arrived just at 7:00, the place seemed packed. The waiter gave me a sad face when I asked for a seat. “Do you have a reservation?” (Damn! Why hadn’t I stopped in.) “No” I replied dejectedly. I thought I was done here, but then he said. “Well, you can sit here.” I He pointed to a small table right inside the door. “Fine” I said. (I was actually very relieved to not be turned away.) He handed me a copy of the hand-written menu in German. I ordered a beer and began deciphering the menu. It was worth the effort. I had smoked trout on a bed of greens to start. I followed with pork medallions in a gorgonzola sauce. This was not your usual “Gasthaus”. This turned out to one of the finer meals I had in Vienna. The food was outstanding. The wait staff were amazing too. They were both efficient and friendly in a typically Viennese way, always ready to engage in just the right amount of banter – enough to make you think they cared, but not enough to slow down service.  As I have mentioned before, I truly enjoy watching good restaurants in operation.

A Visit to Vienna’s Wine Country

Grinzing

The weather forecast suggested that today was the day to visit one of Vienna's wine producing districts.  It was a crisp and sunny day with seasonal temperatures forecasted.Vienna is the only metropolis that grows enough wine within its city limits to make it worth mentioning. 700 hectares of Viennese vineyards leave their mark on the cityscape and its culture. Wine growing has a long tradition in Vienna, dating back to the Romans. White wines are grown in 80 percent of the vineyards, with Wiener Gemischter Satz being a specialty. A little online research told me that I could take a tram from near the apartment out to the end of the line in Grinzing. Grinzing was once an independent municipality but was incorporated into the city of Vienna in 1892. The same is true of several other outlying villages that produce wine. This is how Vienna ended up having vineyards within its city limits.

Monument to the fallen

The tram took about twenty-five minutes and deposited me right in the center of the village. The place was just oozing with charm.  It definitely felt like a small town and not part of a major capital city. I began by walking towards the parish church whose tower was visible as soon as I got off the tram. The church is small and has been recently renovated in a very tasteful manner.  A small park stood outside the church entrance with a sober monument to the villagers who had fallen in WWI. Perhaps because of the centenary of the Armistice, memories of the “Great War” seemed more prominent to me. From there, I began heading away from town. I was hoping to find a trail so that I could get into the woods a bit. Google Maps suggested that there was some open space not too far from where I was, so I just kept going. The street started to climb uphill and was lined with some very posh homes. Clearly, I was in a high-rent district, but I could see why. It was lovely and green.

Vineyard in Grinzing

Grinzing is home to a good number of “Heurige”, a distinctly Viennese phenomenon. Wine growers are allowed to sell their own wine on their property. Originally, the city folk used to pack a picnic and head out into the country. They would find a Heurige, buy some wine and sit down to eat and drink (tables and benches were usually provided, both indoors and out.) Today, most Heurige have food for sale. It’s generally a buffet, you select your items, go and sit down and they are brought to the table as is your beverage of choice. November is marked by the arrival of “Sturm” which is the first wine of the current year’s harvest. It’s generally still fermenting and it packs quite a kick. A real Viennese Heurige, in which only Viennese wines are served, is identified by a bunch of pine branches hanging above the door and by the word “Ausg’steckt” written on a board, which simultaneously shows when the tavern is open.

Viennese Vineyards -City in distance

I passed several Heurige on my way and finally came to my first vineyard. It was quite small, but there it was. I kept going and eventually reached a trail that led to the Kahlenberg, one of the low hills surrounding the city. The sign indicated that the first stop was a 10-minute walk. Soon I was huffing and puffing because the 10-minute walk was straight uphill. In the end, it was worth it because I came out onto an area where one could see down into the city. There were also extensive vineyards all around me. The leaves of the vines had changed to a beautiful golden color; and, in the bright sun, it was a spectacular sight.  I sat on a stone and just absorbed the beauty of my surroundings and, once again, felt blessed that I had been given the opportunity to travel like this.

Lunch in Grinzing

It was now close to one o’clock as I made my way back towards the village to have lunch. Heurige usually only open in the late afternoon/evening so that was not an option. I had passed a few restaurants, though. I stopped in a small park to consult my trusty TripAdvisor app. There was a place right across the street from me, but it had some not so complimentary reviews from tourists. I walked over anyway and looked at the menu posted outside; it had some interesting things on it. I decided to take a chance. It was your typical Austrian country restaurant. I was shown to a table, given a menu and asked for my drink order. I decided on the pumpkin soup again and the pheasant breast cooked in speck, a kind of cured beef. The soup was even better than the one I had tasted in Graz and it had a generous drizzle of pumpkin seed oil that added a nice texture. The pheasant breast was phenomenal, not dry at all, which can happen easily with game birds. It was served with red cabbage and potato croquettes. All in all, one very pleasant meal. The service was friendly and efficient, but I suspect that speaking German didn’t hurt. It also wasn’t terribly busy.

The Dirndl

I got back to the apartment and put my feet up for a while. I had really done a lot of walking today. I wanted to get some rest, because I was meeting Martin at 7:00 to go to a concert and then for something to eat. I took a nap and then decided that I had time to go back to the shop where I had purchased the dirndl for my grandniece. My sisters thought it would be cute if I could get one for her newborn baby sister, too. They did not have the same dirndl in a small enough size, but they did have one for a 6-12 mos. It was decreed that I should get that one. When I came up from the subway to street level, I could tell right away that something was wrong. There were police everywhere and there were broken bottles, trash and spent fireworks all over the place. Very un-Viennese! At the far end of the square, I could see that the police were herding some soccer fans into one street. As I got closer, I could see that they were wearing the colors of Bosnia-Herzegovina. Seems they were playing a match against Austria that night. I managed to get into the shop and get the dirndl.

I met Martin in his office at the University and we walked through the old city to St. Anne’s Church, where the concert was being performed. I had found this online and appreciated the fact that it was short, just over an hour. There were two string quartets on the program, the first by Mozart and the second was “The Emperor” by Franz Josef Hayden. It was a lovely program. We strolled down Kärtner Straße to an Argentinian place that Martin knew across the street from the opera. I was grateful that one of the options was a salad bar. After the lunch I had had, lighter fare was definitely in order! It was a relatively early night, since Martin had a full teaching schedule the next day. I was grateful to get to bed at a reasonable time,too.

"Once In a Lifetime"

One of my all-time favorite paintings

In addition to theater and music, when I visit a city, I always check to see if there are any interesting exhibitions in local galleries or museums. Well, I hit the jackpot coming to Vienna when I did. The Kunsthistorisches Museum was hosting a major retrospective of the works of Pieter Breughel the Elder. Breughel is one of my favorite artists, and one of his paintings, Hunters in the Snow, is among my favorite works of art. Due to the popularity of the show, one had to reserve a time slot. I went one-step further and signed up for a small group tour. My tour was at 1:00. I was very excited about this.

Mariahilfe Strasse

Since I was headed in that direction, I spent an hour or so strolling along Mariahilfe Straße, Vienna’s main shopping thoroughfare. It is a long street that leads from the museum quarter to the Westbahnhof, the former main train station. For most of its length, it is a pedestrian zone. It was a fine sunny day and the street was crowded. There are a few high-end stores, but for the most part, the shops here attract a wide variety of customers. I was not really in the market for anything, but it is always fun to see what’s out there. The fact that many of the stores were already decorated for Christmas added to the festive atmosphere. Soon though, it was time to head for the KHM and my tour.

Ticket sales outside the museum

It was warm in the museum, so I checked my jacket and my bag. I then set about finding the meeting place for the tours. I found my group and was pleased to see that we were being supplied with headsets. That would make hearing in a crowd much easier. Not to be a show-off, but I signed up for a tour in German since one of my reasons for coming to Vienna was to brush up my language skills.

The exhibition was called “Once in a Lifetime.” Here’s what the museum website has to say about the show: “The Bruegel exhibition in Vienna is the setting for an amazing encounter. About half of all the extant works by Pieter Bruegel the Elder are on show. About forty paintings, sixty drawings and eighty prints can be attributed to him today. It happens as 2019 sees the 450th anniversary of the death of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (c. 1525/30 – 1569).

This ’summit’ of masterpieces is a small miracle. Many of these international loans are so old and fragile that they hardly ever travel, and many of the works on show in the Bruegel exhibition have never before left their hometowns.”

On the tour

Our tour began with some of Breughel’s Italian drawings. Our docent did an outstanding job of using his drawings to prepare us to better understand the paintings.  I was particularly interested in seeing how Breughel transferred his experience of Italian landscapes into his depictions of everyday life in the “Low Countries”. It had never occurred to me to ask why his depictions of daily life in the Netherlands always included  mountains, when there are no mountains there. The departure from “reality” helps one to appreciate the allegorical nature of most of Breughel’s work. The tour only lasted an hour, but I was very glad that I signed up. We still had to fight the crowds, but the docent’s comments were extremely helpful. You were allowed to return to the exhibit, but, frankly, I was too saturated with impressions and information to go back. Like almost all major exhibitions these days, you exit via the shop. In this case, it was a temporary venue. I was very tempted by many things, but I resisted.

Emperor Franz Josef

 As I was leaving, I was struck again by the grandeur of the museum itself. The building, which dates from the late 1800’s, reflects the exuberance and confidence of the late Hapsburg empire.

Before leaving the museum, I paused to take a photo of a bust of the Emperor Franz Josef, during whose 68-year reign the museum was built. Seeing that image reminded me of a passage in a book about fin-de-siecle Vienna. “The emperor was ubiquitous, yet, peculiarly, never quite there. His portraits were everywhere, in every post office and bank and government building. The old face with the mutton chops and the thinning hair looked down on everyone from Alpine villages to Slovenian towns, and the vast army of bureaucrats dutifully mimicked his appearance, so that every postal carrier and sewer inspector seemed to be an imperial clone.”

Taken from the tram

I emerged from the museum into the bright sun. I walked a few blocks before hopping on the tram. Once at my stop, I picked up a bottle of wine. Then I made a quick stop at the apartment to grab my shopping bag. I needed to get up a few things at the supermarket. While I was there, I also bought a sandwich to tide me over before dinner. I got back to the apartment and took my shoes off. I had been on my feet for quite a while. I left the apartment again at 5:00 to get to Martin’s house by 6:00. He lived quite far outside the center, but getting there was a bit of a stroll down memory lane. I had to use the same subway-streetcar connection that I had used when I lived with his parents back in 1981. They lived at the very end of the streetcar line. Martin was not quite that far. We had a lovely dinner of Styrian cheese & wurst that I had brought him from Graz. He had also made a tasty pumpkin and ginger soup accompanied by some delicious bread. A cake, which Barbara had made, was a nice finishing touch. Given the hour (after 10:00), I took a cab back to the apartment. I was ready for bed! It had been a long but great day.

Tuesday

Naschmarkt

Tuesday was another foggy and chilly day. The weather during my first week in Austria had been quite mild for November, but now the days were getting colder. Each day the temperature sank a little- nothing dramatic but today it was noticeable. My first destination today was the “Naschmarkt”, Vienna’s outdoor food market. I was having dinner on Wednesday evening at Martin’s house and had been deputed to bring some olives. Easy enough. The market runs along one side of a major artery for at least eight blocks. There are both food vendors and food stalls, though many of the “stalls” are actually enclosed. There are also vendors selling a few clothing items. If I found them, I was in the market for a cap and a scarf. I had thrown a pair of gloves in my bag, but no hat or scarf.

I arrived at the market around eleven o’clock. Most vendors close up at noon, though the eateries stay open longer. I strolled a good length of the market checking out the offerings. There were plenty of Mediterranean vendors – Italians, Greeks and Turks – selling olives. The market was fairly quiet, so the vendors were eagerly vying for every customer. It sometimes bordered on the comical. In the end, I stopped at a Turkish stand and bought some pitted Kalamata olives, a blend mix, and then, at the urging of the seller, some large green olives stuffed with fresh cheese. They were really yummy. I was very tempted by many other items, but showed uncharacteristic discipline.

Dirndls in the market

As I made my way along, I saw a few vendors selling child-sized dirndls. In Graz, I almost bought one for my grandniece, Maddie. But, I hesitated and when I went back, the shop was closed. I promised to look in Vienna. The ones at the market were colorful, but obviously mass-produced and not of great quality. If I found nothing better, I knew I could always come back. I took a picture to show my sisters, but never ended up sending it. I did find myself a scarf and a ski cap. I didn’t even bother to put them in the bag.

Part of the Beethoven Frieze

The Naschmarkt is right across the street from the Secession, the building that was the showcase for the group of artists of the same name. The Secession was formed by a group of renegade artists who wanted to break with the academic school of art. Their “motto” was ‘Ver Sacrum’, the Sacred Spring, to indicate that theirs was a new beginning. One of the members, Josef Maria Olbrich, designed the building to hold the group’s first international exhibition in 1897. The building was as controversial as much of the artwork, which it housed. The building today serves as a space for temporary exhibition. It also houses one permanent piece, the so-called “Beethoven Frieze” by Gustav Klimt. That is what I wanted to see. Curiously, in my many visits to Vienna, I had never been inside the Secession. The actual room where the frieze is found is relatively small. I was lucky to be there without a mob of other gawkers. As with the Klimt works that I had seen yesterday, this one just reminded me again that Klimt was an absolute visionary.

St. Stephen's Cathedral

Maybe it was the dreary day or the cold, but I didn’t feel like doing anything else. Fortunately, I had a nice, cozy apartment to return to. I stopped once I got off the subway and bought some soup and a sandwich. I went back to the apartment and was grateful for the efficient heating system. I called to Servitenwirt to make a reservation for dinner. While I was eating my lunch, I did some research on line about where to look for a dirndl. One shop that came highly recommended was right near St. Stephen’s cathedral. I hadn’t been to that area yet; so, after a little nap, I bundled up and headed out again. I located the shop and went inside. A nice young sales clerk greeted me and asked if he could help. I told him what I was looking for and he led me to what they had. They only had two styles, but one of them in blue, white and red was very charming. The other style was pink, purple and green. It was not quite as classic as the other. Surprisingly, this young man knew his children’s sizes and I found one for Maddie. There was not one quite small enough for her newborn little sister, Abigail. The clerk took the dirndl while I went to browse in the men’s department. He was a very good salesman; I went home with a sweater-vest that I hadn’t intended to buy. Proud of my accomplishments, I was ready for a nice dinner.

Servitenwirt

I returned to Servitenwirt, perhaps my favorite restaurant in Vienna.  I had poked my head in the night before, Monday, and knew I would not get a seat. Tonight, Tuesday, the place was very quiet. I had mussels Provençal to begin. I hadn’t had much seafood of late. They were excellent. For my main course, I ordered pork cordon bleu. I had seen this on almost every menu but had never ordered it. I was surprised when it arrived, because it was not rolled the way we think of it. Instead, it was a pork schnitzel with ham and cheese on top, then breaded and fried. It also was excellent- and very filling. Today had been a good day. Contented, I walked back to my apartment, watched CNN for a bit and then turned in.