Interlude in Chiusi

Landscape near Chiusi

Spending a night in Chiusi was a result of my poor planning. Somehow, I had gotten it into my head that the course ended on Sunday. As a result, I had arranged for Frank and Deborah to pick me up on Sunday morning. When I learned that the course ended on Saturday, I didn’t feel like I could impose on them for another night. So, I decided to stay overnight in Chiusi and just keep the original arrangements in place. Fortunately for me, there is a little 3-star hotel in Chiusi that had availability. I quickly booked myself in. The same happenstance allowed me to book a table at La Solita Zuppa, a restaurant named one of Italy’s top 100 osterie. I would also have a chance to visit the Etruscan Museum, which we did not do as a group. Despite the circumstances, everything worked out for the good.

My "sandwich"

Julian dropped me off at the hotel. I checked in and dropped my bag. I walked up to the museum to check the opening times and fortunately, it was open all day. I also wanted to see if there was a Saturday evening Mass, but there wasn’t. There was a Mass at 8:30 a.m. in one church and 11:00 a.m. in the cathedral. It would have to be 8:30. Then I had to decide about lunch. I wanted to eat early and lightly so that I would be hungry by dinner time. I thought about going back to the pizza place where we had eaten as a group, but then I saw this little shop next to La Solita Zuppa that was both a market and sold sandwiches. I went in and the nice woman inside talked me into a flatbread (crescia) with capocollo, mozzarella & arugula. Turned out to be a good choice. It also turned out to be good for me, because the woman was the wife in the couple that owned and ran La Solita Zuppa. Since I was the only one in the place, we had a nice conversation. As I was leaving, I told her that I had come especially to eat at their restaurant that night. She seemed quite pleased about that.

The cathedral square in Chiusi

I walked around the town a bit before heading into the museum. It was an interesting collection and very well documented. I was happy that I had a chance to see it. As it turned out, there were many artifacts from the town of Cetona, where I was heading the following day. After leaving the museum, I sat for about a half an hour in the little park across the street from the museum. Siesta was ending, and the townsfolk were beginning to reappear. It was a gorgeous fall afternoon and I savored this moment as I began my last full week in Italy. I went back to the hotel and rested up for dinner.

My reservation "card"

When 7:30 arrived, I walked the short distance to the restaurant. My new found friend greeted me warmly and showed me to my table, on which was the most charming reservation ”card” I had ever seen. Julian warned me that the recitation of the day’s dishes was a production, and, indeed, it was. They have a printed menu, but you really aren’t meant to use it. Just as well. The offerings were incredible and deeply rooted in the season and the local traditions. It was so hard to decide, but in the end, I opted for roasted wild boar liver as my appetizer, lentil and chestnut soup as my primo piatto and braised lamb with sautéed chicory as my main course. I stuck with the house red wine, which was perfectly delicious. 

The owner recites the menu

As the evening went on, the place gradually filled. Many of the guests were foreigners like myself, but there were also a good many locals as well. When it came time for dessert, I wavered. The portions had been relatively modest, so I agreed to the panna cotta with fig sauce. Hands down, it was the best panna cotta I have ever eaten. In fact, the entire meal was one of the most memorable I have ever eaten. I waddled back to my hotel a very contented diner.